Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Scotland Day 4 - The Dales!


Now THAT'S what  I call a breakfast!  English breakfast ROCKS!  What a great way to get ready for our first hike in England.  We decided to head out this morning on a local hike to a number of waterfalls.  There were some surprises in store!

We drove to the trail head, only about half a mile from our B&B.  The idea was to do a loop hike that would finish at the other end of the village and then back to the car.


We quickly came to our first surprise.  A dead tree, right?


Well, look more closely!



This was called the Money Tree.  Apparently some time ago people started jamming coins into the cracks in the fallen tree, and it caught on...something about luck, go figure, and now the entire tree is coated in coins!  It was a bit surreal once we figured out what it was.  Really cool, I say.

So we wandered along this lovely river through the woods...


I think that's all limestone, but Stephen will correct me if I'm wrong.  The day was partly cloudy and a little misty...perfect conditions!  We climbed through this canyon, not really knowing what to expect, and then came along to this...


...out of the trees, onto the Dales, and a really great waterfall.  This water flows off of the Dales, and contains lots of tannin, which colors the water like tea (my brother Norbert and I drank this stuff in Alaska when we went fishing for Pike, but that's another story.)  Above this falls we got into beautiful sheep country, and our first close-up-and-personal with real rock wall/fences.



That's dry stone work, and these fences seemed to go on forever!  I wondered about the manpower it took to build them.  Apparently the stones come out of the pastures, so they're already on site and ready to go!






 Notice the curled horns of this guy.  They were mildly interested in us, but mostly just wanted to eat. There was even a tree for interest, with it's own protecting wall to keep the sheep out. 


We wandered along up high for a while, and then back into the canyon for more waterfalls...





The path led us back to town where we bought lunch and visited the village church.




It was a lovely hike, and a wonderful introduction to the Dales.  As I looked over those rolling hills I could imagine walking and walking for a very long time.  Did I mention the breakfast!?  Oh yeah, sorry.

So this was just our morning.  We had some driving to do to get into Scotland and our next B&B.  So off we went.  This was the road out of town...a TWO WAY ROAD...no kidding.


Sue kept telling me to move over more because her side of the car was too close to the edge of the road, and I kept telling her that I was almost off the road on my side, so we stopped to determine which one of us was being a wimp.  It turns out that either neither of us was, or we both were, depending on how you look at it.  Again, this is not a driveway, or a sidewalk, it's a TWO WAY ROAD!!!!  Oh yeah, speed limit?  60 mph...both ways....AAAAHHHHHHHHH!


Sue tried her hand at driving on the other side of the car and road, and did great until a bus, coming the other way, kinda ran her off the road.  We took this picture afterward (we were kind busy not dying)...tell me if you see a problem...


Let's see, left tire on the line....right tire on the line...(lookout tree!)  Maybe we were looking at this wrong...it's probably just considered "efficient" use of the roadway.  Every time a car went by going the other way I'd flinch because it would be only about 18 inches from my car, and I kept expecting to hear a CRASH.  By the end of the driving day I was exhausted.  Anyway, I drove again after the bus incident.  We had determined our roles:  I drive, Sue navigates (such a beautiful navigator, and she did a super job!)



As we crossed into Scotland, I did my best imitation of the bagpipes playing Scotland The Brave.  I'll spare you that video. :-)  Nah, no I won't spare you, check this out!




Ok, here are more road pictures.  Notice how close the houses are to the road (60 mph)


...and people park on the streets in the villages, so, yeah, just work it out with oncoming traffic.



Have I mentioned how courteous UK drivers are?  No kidding, the nicest drivers I've ever encountered (bus notwithstanding).

Into Scotland we went, and after some more winding roads where the rock walls come up right off of the white line of the road (no shoulder), we rounded our first Loch (lake) and Sue says Stop!  Fortunately there was an Inn at this particular spot, and we stopped to see "Still".  A famous sculpture, in the lake.  Ok, we're touristing, so let's get out.


The lake wasn't still, the wind wasn't still, but the Silver Guy was Still.  I think that was the point.

With all this excitement behind us, we arrived in Crianlarich, in the Scottish Highlands, at our wonderful B&B.  Did I mention what a great job April did at finding these places?


We checked in and got a recommendation for dinner, so off we went to the local pub...



Let's see...quaint works as a description, but also comfortable and welcoming.  Those kilts are wrapped around the bar stools.  There was "live entertainment" consisting of an old guy playing that guitar.  I thought he was pretty good, considering, but Sue didn't bother to take his picture.  The food, once again, was simple but good, just the way I like it.  Our first day in Scotland, and we're having the time of our lives!


















Monday, November 13, 2017

Day 3 - Fountains Abbey to the Yorkshire Dales

Day 3 took us out of the Fens of southeastern England.  The Fens used to be swamps, but long ago some enterprising would-be farmer decided to drain one of these swamps and try his hand at growing something other than eels.  It worked very well and now most of the Fens are farmland…very low farmland.  The roads through this area are about 8-10 feet above the surrounding farmland, but the soil looks rich and black.  I should have a picture of the Fens right here but, a) they weren't very exciting, and b) there were high hedges all along the roads so you could hardly find a place to take a decent picture.  Trust me…flat…very flat.

So we made our way toward Ingleton, where our first bed and breakfast was located.  Our daughter/travel agent, April, booked our accommodations for us and did a wonderful job!  I highly recommend her.  But first, on the way to Ingleton, which is on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales, we wanted to stop at Fountains Abbey.  This is a ruined Abbey, but sounded like fun so off we went.  Here's the first glimpse of the Norman tower that sets off the ruin…


but first we went to the manor house to see it and its sculpted hedges and neato bridge…






There was an orchard on the other side of this bridge so we each grabbed an apple…they were great!  And reminded me of when Sue and I used to pick apples on the south side of the BYU campus when we were starving students, but that's another story (great memory!)  Ok, back to the Abbey…






…to add to the atmosphere, there was a flock of Rooks (crows) flying around the ruins and cawing…perfect for touring an ancient sorta-creepy place.  The last picture above was a guest house that obviously used to have two stories.  The rock masonry was really impressive, especially give that it's still standing.  On to what's left of the basement and barracks, the main chapel, and the tower…






This place sits in a lovely little dale with a stream running through it.  An idyllic setting…




Notice the floor detail in the last picture.  That had to be a labor of love.  But, I guess without TV or WiFi, they probably had some time on their hands.  From the Abbey we walked around to the Elizabethan-age fountains that harbored pheasants and swans…



We sat down for some hot peppermint tea and enjoyed the surroundings.  On our walk back through the grounds to the car, I saw this statue of a deer…then it moved!  I was astounded…the "statue" then got up and trotted away.  A deer with moose-like antlers, but not much bigger than Grizz, my dog!


Sue got a safari-esque photo of a hedgehog in its natural environment…it looked kinda mad…


So we got on the road along the edge of the Yorkshire Dales…



… on to our lovely B&B in Ingleton.  It's also the local garden nursery.  The town is quaint and welcoming…







…but I had to remember to duck…and once I didn't…ouch!


We had dinner at my first English pub.  The food was great and hey, they welcome dogs and muddy boots, so what could be better?


This trip just keeps getting better!  We had a wonderful day, a peaceful rainy night's sleep, and tomorrow promised more adventure!